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Archive for May, 2006

Watermelon Wine Recipe

Posted by ben On May - 31 - 2006ADD COMMENTS
 
Its been extemely warm the past few days here with temperatures hovering around 90 degrees.  Feels more like the middle of summer than the middle month of spring.  The best thing about summer is being able to get local and ripe watermelons.  Something about those big green things that just “ooze” summer. 
 
I have made watermelon wine in the past, but it was pretty lackluster and thin.  I ended up mixing it with some concord wine just to use it up.  This recipe is untested and is something I will be trying later on.  It is a simple recipe but does require knowledge of how to use a hydrometer.
 
 
  • 8 cups watermelon juice
  • 1/8 teaspoon tannin
  • 2 eleven ounce White Welch’s Frozen Grape Juice 
  • 2 campden tablets
  • 1 teaspoon nutrients
  • 2 1/2 teaspoons acid blend
  • 1 package wine yeast
  • enough sugar to bring your hydrometer reading to 1.090
  • enough water to bring the must to a total of 1 gallon 
  • Remove rind and cube the watermelon flesh. Use an electric juicer or place cubes in a nylon straining bag and crush, squeezing out the juice. Pour into the primary fermentor. Add all other ingredients except the yeast. Stir well to dissolve sugar. Let sit over night.

    The next day, check the specific gravity. It should be between 1.090 and 1.095. Add yeast and mix in well. Cover primary fermentor. Stir daily for five days or until frothing stops. Put into secondary fermentor and place airlock on the bottle.

    Rack in about a month and check the gravity.  Rack again in 3 months or bottle.  Of course, taste it and see if it is good enough to be consumed after 3 months.  Most wines will take 9 to 12 months to reach their peak.


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    Making Beer the Easy Way

    Posted by ben On May - 12 - 2006ADD COMMENTS
    I found this tutorial at Instructables.com.  It doesn’t get any easier than this except for maybe buying a commercially made beer.  This is really for the true beginner and uses a lot of techinques that I have used and still use for making beer.  One thing to be careful about is using the plastic water jug.  Most companies will not take them back if you use them for making beer or wine.  Also, I never use a bottle brush on my plastic jugs instead I use Oxi-Clean.  Oxi-Clean will take out and clean the plastic jug almost 100% of the time and if you do need to clean inside the neck, you a soft cloth.
     

     
    So, you’ve considered brewing your own beer but you’re not yet willing to drop the cash for the entry level kit just yet.  With a few simple pieces of equipment and ingredients here’s how you can brew your own mini batch.  In just a couple of weeks you can taste for yourself if homebrewing is a hobby you want to take to the next level. 

    Don’t get me wrong, I think the entry level brew kits are a good value.  They include some special equipment not used here that will make things easier.  But, will you enjoy the beer or find the brewing process rewarding?  I think so.  This project will allow you to find out for yourself.

     

    * Brew pot – any large kitchen pot that will hold a couple of gallons of water with room to spare to avoid boiling over.
    * Kitchen strainer – to strain grains and hops before going to the fermenter
    * Kitchen thermometer
    * Large funnel
    * Rolling pin – for crushing the grain
    * 3 gallon container of bottled water – this will provide you with the water to make your beer and serve as your fermentation container
    * Bottling container – An empty container of at least 3 gallons…could be another empty water bottle or a clean, scratch-free, food grade plastic bucket.
    * 3 feet of 3/8″ clear poly-vinyl tubing – for siphoning and fermentation air lock
    * Bottles – there are a lot of options here and I’ll cover some of them in the bottling step later




    Popularity: 1% [?]

    Making Beer the Easy Way

    Posted by ben On May - 11 - 2006Comments Off
    I found this tutorial at Instructables.com. It doesn't get any easier than this except for maybe buying a commercially made beer. This is really for the true beginner and uses a lot of techinques that I have used and still use for making beer. One thing to be careful about is using the plastic water jug. Most companies will not take them back if you use them for making beer or wine. Also, I never use a bottle brush on my plastic jugs instead I use Oxi-Clean. Oxi-Clean will take out and clean the plastic jug almost 100% of the time and if you do need to clean inside the neck, you a soft cloth.

    So, you've considered brewing your own beer but you're not yet willing to drop the cash for the entry level kit just yet. With a few simple pieces of equipment and ingredients here's how you can brew your own mini batch. In just a couple of weeks you can taste for yourself if homebrewing is a hobby you want to take to the next level.

    Don't get me wrong, I think the entry level brew kits are a good value. They include some special equipment not used here that will make things easier. But, will you enjoy the beer or find the brewing process rewarding? I think so. This project will allow you to find out for yourself.

    * Brew pot - any large kitchen pot that will hold a couple of gallons of water with room to spare to avoid boiling over.
    * Kitchen strainer - to strain grains and hops before going to the fermenter
    * Kitchen thermometer
    * Large funnel
    * Rolling pin - for crushing the grain
    * 3 gallon container of bottled water - this will provide you with the water to make your beer and serve as your fermentation container
    * Bottling container - An empty container of at least 3 gallons...could be another empty water bottle or a clean, scratch-free, food grade plastic bucket.
    * 3 feet of 3/8" clear poly-vinyl tubing - for siphoning and fermentation air lock
    * Bottles - there are a lot of options here and I'll cover some of them in the bottling step later


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    Brewer’s Malt

    Posted by ben On May - 9 - 2006ADD COMMENTS

    This is an interesting article on 2 row and 6 row malt that I found at Realbeer.com.

    Brewers call malt “the soul of beer” but they might also add that malt contributes mightily to the different personalities we expect from beer. It’s a big subject, so this week we’ll discuss barley malt only and stick to the paler varieties.

    Of all the barley grown, only one-quarter or less is used for malting. The rest is used to feed animals. Barley is well-suited for malting because it has the right components for yeast nutrition, it tastes good (homebrewers already know this — if you aren’t one, then ask to try some malt next time you visit a brewpub or tour a microbrewery), and it has a solid husk (protecting it at harvest, then later aiding the brewing process).

    Barley is first of all divided by how many rows of grain there are in each ear — either six or two.

    Two-row is plumper and responsible for a softer, sweeter flavor. It is regarded as higher quality and long has been the standard in the traditional brewing nations (all of Europe and Great Britain).

    Six-row barley is found more often in the United States and hotter Mediterranean lands. Europeans brewers are not alone in calling it less refined, and a beer made only with six-row is more likely to taste grainy and will probably show chill-haze because of excess proteins. In moderation, it lends a firmness and husky character to beer, which some ale brewers prefer.

    Six-row is less efficient (yielding less extract from a mash) but because of higher levels of diastic enzymes and protein it is better suited for mashing adjuncts, such as corn or rice, that lack those materials. Thus it was (and is) a perfect barley malt for the style (light lager, with adjuncts) beer that came to dominate the U.S. beer landscape in the 20th century.

    Within two-row there are the continental and maritime varieties. The continental barleys, such as those grown in the Czech Republic, are generally sweeter, nuttier and maybe oilier. The maritime barleys of Denmark and the United Kingdom are a bit cleaner and more delicate.

    Then there are winter barleys and spring barleys, sown in the fall and later winter respectively. Winter barleys tend to be huskier, spring varieties softer and sweeter.

    We’ll spare you the details of the different manners in which barley may be malted, and just tell you that is another important variable. Sound confusing enough?

    Over much of time, brewers have used the barley grown closest to home, often even malting it themselves. It’s fairly recently, and mostly in the United States, that a brewer could order malt from halfway around the world so he or she could make a true-to-style Czech pilsner (with Moravian malt) or a Belgian dubbel (with two-row Belgian pale malt made from winter barley).

    A quick summary of these pale options:

    - Pilsner malt (2-row) from Europe. This is the palest two-row malt available, and is used in pilsners and other lagers.

    - Lager malt (2-row) from the United States. Used in lagers of all colors, as wells as ales and steam beers.

    - Lager malt (6-row) from North America. Excellent to use with a high percentage of adjuncts, but generally considered inferior in taste to 2-row.

    - Pale ale malt (2-row) from Europe. This malt is what British-style ales are all about (70-90% of a stout is actually pale malt; more next week). The top British and Belgian pale malts are generally considered the best you can buy, and their flavors at quite similar, imparting a maltiness without being sulfury.

     


     




    Popularity: 1% [?]

    Priming Chart

    Posted by ben On May - 9 - 2006ADD COMMENTS

    Priming Chart for a 5 gallon batch

     I found this chart in Charlie Papazian’s book called The Home Brewer’s Companion and thought I would replicate it for you. One of the reasons I am posting it is that I am going to try an experiment with “mini-kegging” my beer in a two gallon plastic container with a spigot. Plans are to see how long it can keep in the fridge and stay fresh and carbonated. I’m thinking that it will stay good for about 2 weeks max after tapping it. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

     


     






    Popularity: 1% [?]

    Brewer’s Malt

    Posted by ben On May - 8 - 2006Comments Off

    This is an interesting article on 2 row and 6 row malt that I found at Realbeer.com.

    Brewers call malt "the soul of beer" but they might also add that malt contributes mightily to the different personalities we expect from beer. It's a big subject, so this week we'll discuss barley malt only and stick to the paler varieties.

    Of all the barley grown, only one-quarter or less is used for malting. The rest is used to feed animals. Barley is well-suited for malting because it has the right components for yeast nutrition, it tastes good (homebrewers already know this -- if you aren't one, then ask to try some malt next time you visit a brewpub or tour a microbrewery), and it has a solid husk (protecting it at harvest, then later aiding the brewing process).

    Barley is first of all divided by how many rows of grain there are in each ear -- either six or two.

    Two-row is plumper and responsible for a softer, sweeter flavor. It is regarded as higher quality and long has been the standard in the traditional brewing nations (all of Europe and Great Britain).

    Six-row barley is found more often in the United States and hotter Mediterranean lands. Europeans brewers are not alone in calling it less refined, and a beer made only with six-row is more likely to taste grainy and will probably show chill-haze because of excess proteins. In moderation, it lends a firmness and husky character to beer, which some ale brewers prefer.

    Six-row is less efficient (yielding less extract from a mash) but because of higher levels of diastic enzymes and protein it is better suited for mashing adjuncts, such as corn or rice, that lack those materials. Thus it was (and is) a perfect barley malt for the style (light lager, with adjuncts) beer that came to dominate the U.S. beer landscape in the 20th century.

    Within two-row there are the continental and maritime varieties. The continental barleys, such as those grown in the Czech Republic, are generally sweeter, nuttier and maybe oilier. The maritime barleys of Denmark and the United Kingdom are a bit cleaner and more delicate.

    Then there are winter barleys and spring barleys, sown in the fall and later winter respectively. Winter barleys tend to be huskier, spring varieties softer and sweeter.

    We'll spare you the details of the different manners in which barley may be malted, and just tell you that is another important variable. Sound confusing enough?

    Over much of time, brewers have used the barley grown closest to home, often even malting it themselves. It's fairly recently, and mostly in the United States, that a brewer could order malt from halfway around the world so he or she could make a true-to-style Czech pilsner (with Moravian malt) or a Belgian dubbel (with two-row Belgian pale malt made from winter barley).

    A quick summary of these pale options:

    - Pilsner malt (2-row) from Europe. This is the palest two-row malt available, and is used in pilsners and other lagers.

    - Lager malt (2-row) from the United States. Used in lagers of all colors, as wells as ales and steam beers.

    - Lager malt (6-row) from North America. Excellent to use with a high percentage of adjuncts, but generally considered inferior in taste to 2-row.

    - Pale ale malt (2-row) from Europe. This malt is what British-style ales are all about (70-90% of a stout is actually pale malt; more next week). The top British and Belgian pale malts are generally considered the best you can buy, and their flavors at quite similar, imparting a maltiness without being sulfury.


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    Priming Chart

    Posted by ben On May - 8 - 2006Comments Off

    Priming Chart for a 5 gallon batch

    I found this chart in Charlie Papazian's book called The Home Brewer's Companion and thought I would replicate it for you. One of the reasons I am posting it is that I am going to try an experiment with "mini-kegging" my beer in a two gallon plastic container with a spigot. Plans are to see how long it can keep in the fridge and stay fresh and carbonated. I'm thinking that it will stay good for about 2 weeks max after tapping it. I'll let you know how it turns out.


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